Custom Engagement Rings

The Ultimate Guide to Sizing Rings for the Perfect Fit

The Ultimate Guide to Sizing Rings for the Perfect Fit - Jewelsmith

 

How to find the right finger size so your rings feel as good as they look.

Why is it so hard to get that perfect fit for your rings? Rings that slide around or are uncomfortably tight can be super annoying. This is especially true for rings you wear every day like your engagement ring and wedding band.

We'll explore the reasons why getting that perfect ring size can be tricky. We'll also discuss what you can do to ensure your rings are comfortable and healthy for you to wear.

What should the perfect fit look like and feel like?

Everyday ring fit:

Engagement rings and wedding bands are the rings most people wear the most. You'll probably want to put the most effort into getting just the right fit for rings like these. 

Since you're wearing these rings every day, you'll notice the little changes in your fingers more than rings you only wear once in a while. Your fingers are constantly adjusting to environmental and biological factors. What you're looking for is a fit that is never too loose or too tight. 

So, what does that perfect fit look like? When you're putting the ring over your knuckle, it should slide over without much effort. When you take it back off, there should be a little more resistance. Enough that you should have to walk it over the knuckle. 

 

What should the perfect ring fit Not look like?

 

 

Occasional wear fit:

A ring you're only wearing out to dinner every now and then can be a little looser. You don't want it to be so tight that you can't get it off or so loose that it falls off. But erring on the side of being looser is a safe bet.

Pro Tips: 

  • Keep in mind your fingers can change size from day to day or even hour to hour. Understand that sometimes your ring will feel a little tighter and sometimes looser. The goal is to find that sweet spot where it's never too tight or too loose.
  • Try to avoid having your finger measured on a really hot or really cold day.
  • Try to avoid having your finger measured after a long walk or exercise.
  • Try to avoid having your finger measured after a particularly salty meal.
  • If you're not used to the feel of wearing a ring don't be tempted to go with a size that's too loose. Don't worry, you will get used to it and barely notice it after a while.
  • Don't go with a size that's too small out of concern that your ring will fall off. Find the sweet spot with the help of your trusted local jeweler.
  • Don't get hung up on the numbers - it's totally normal for your fingers to change size. No one but you and your jeweler will ever know the number. Just go with what works for you!
  • Trust the advice from your jeweler - they have experience and can guide you to the right fit for you and your ring. 

    How do you measure your finger for rings?

    Hands down, the best way to measure your finger is with a set of ring size measuring tools at a jewelry store.

    Yes, there are lots of online tools, circles to compare with existing rings, TikToks about tying string or strips of paper, and on and on. But we have found that they are inaccurate in many if not most cases.

    Wait, what's wrong with the online sizing tools and home techniques? 

    The difference between a size 6 and size 7 (in the US, Mexico and Canada) ring is less than a millimeter in diameter. 0.81 of a millimeter to be exact. That's about the thickness of an average credit card. In the case of the circles you print out and compare to the inside of your existing ring, they might get you in the ballpark but don't count on them especially for your everyday rings. The theory is reasonable, but rings are rarely a perfect circle plus it's really hard to tell which circle fits best by eye. Also, it would only theoretically work for rings that are the same all the way around like a wedding band. We tested online printable ring charts and sizers, followed the directions precisely and had the following results:

    The wedding band (with flush set colored diamonds in our example) appeared to be 6.5 but actually measured size 6.

    Flush set colored diamond band on sizing circle
     flush set colored diamond band on mandrel

    The ring with the rose cut gray diamond set at the top appeared to be size 7, but actually measured 6.25.

     rose cut gray diamond ring on circle sizer rose cut gray diamond ring on mandrel

    Many rings are wider at the top where gems are set which tilts the circle of the ring and makes it even less accurate.

    String, yarn and paper methods don't take into account how the ring goes on and off over your knuckle. If you can't get it over your knuckle, with just the right resistance, you're likely to get it stuck or not be able to wear it at all. Here's what the paper sizer measured my finger as opposed to a sizing ring:

    A size and half off!

    paper sizer  ring sizer on finger

     

     

    But I want to order a ring from an online-only store and I need it in the right size!

    Solution: No problem, your local jeweler can size your finger even when you're not buying from them right then. It's a service most jewelers are willing to do because they're hoping that you will love their personalized service and maybe buy from them in the future.

    I want to have a custom ring created or purchase a handcrafted ring from Jewelsmith, but I live too far from Durham, NC to come in to have my partner's or my ring size measured. 

    Solution: You can either visit a jeweler near you as described above or we at Jewelsmith can send you a set of plastic ring sizers to determine the right size. Contact our designers to get started on your custom project.

     

     

    What factors make measuring and sizing rings trickier?

    Width:

    Wide rings fit more tightly than narrow rings. Most people's fingers are the narrowest right at the base where the finger meets the palm. Narrow rings resting in that space will feel looser. Once the width of a single ring or of multiple rings stacked hits the thicker part of the finger, they will fit more tightly. 

    Solution: Use a wide finger sizer or two or more narrow ones stacked to get the right fit.

    flush set multi colored diamond band and earrings on model

    Hollow Spaces:

    Rings with hollow spaces fit more loosely than solid ones. This is an often-overlooked factor in getting a good fit. The hollow area underneath the ring will make it easier to go over your knuckle. 

    Solution - Use the "fits like" method. Find the regular finger sizer that fits, then the jeweler will size the ring to the size (usually slightly smaller) that feels like the desired size.

    Comfort Fit:

    Rings that are very rounded or "comfort fit" on the inside fit more loosely than rings that are flatter on the inside. This is because a flat ring contacts more of your finger. Rounded inside rings also slide more easily across the knuckle.drawing of comfort fit shank style

    This is the difference between a comfort fit and a ring that's flat on the inside.

    drawing of half round shank style

    Solution 1 - Use comfort fit wedding bands from a wedding band kit as sizers instead of regular sizers that are flat on the inside. 

    Solution 2 - Get a 1/4 size smaller that the regular sizer that fits you best.

    See more about the shapes of ring shanks, gems and more.

    Out of Round:

    If a ring isn't totally round, it won't give a true measure on a ring mandrel. Ring mandrels are usually round with marks at the diameters of each ring size. Out of round rings will measure as smaller than they really feel, since you can't push them all the way up their true size.

    A ring that isn't round isn't usually a problem in and of itself unless it is extremely wonky. It can be an issue if you're trying to find the size for another ring based on one that doesn't measure accurately. 

    out of round ring on a ring mandrel

    Solution 1 - Have your local jeweler re-round the ring. 

    Solution 2 - Use the "fits like" method as described above.

     

    Larger Knuckles or Arthritic Knuckles:

    It can be pretty frustrating to get the fit right when your knuckles are on the larger side. The ring has to be big enough to go over the knuckle, but then spins around once it's on. If this sounds familiar, you're in good company. Lots of people have this issue. Fortunately, there are solutions!hand with larger knuckles

    Solution 1 - Sizing pillows or balls (described in detail later in this article)

    Solution 2 - Hinged shanks (described in detail later in this article)

     How are rings sized?

    The best method for sizing a ring depends on a lot of factors. Find a jeweler you trust and let them give you advice based on their years of experience and expertise. A good jeweler will thoroughly inspect the ring and explain the why one method is better than others for you.

    Stretch:

    In some cases, wedding bands can be stretched or compressed without cutting. This only works if:

    • The size difference is not too great.
    • The ring is the same width and thickness all the way around.
    • The ring has never been cut before.
    • There are no diamonds or gemstones set in the ring.
    • There are no cracks in the metal.
    • The ring is made of a metal that can be stretched (mainly: silver, gold, platinum).

    Roll: 

    A special tool called a ring roller can sometimes be used to stretch just a small section of the ring. This works by squeezing the metal between rollers that make the metal longer but also thinner. This can only be done in certain circumstances where the ring is thick enough to start. That way ending up a little thinner won't sacrifice its strength. 

    Remove section:

    If a ring needs to be smaller, a section of metal (usually towards the bottom of the ring) can be removed and then soldered back together. When done properly, you can't even tell that it was ever cut.

    Add section:

    If a ring needs to be larger, metal can be added to make it the right size. The same type and color of metal will be used. Again, when done properly, you can't see the seams where the plug was added.

    Sizing pillows or balls:

    Sometimes your knuckle is larger than the base of your finger. If the ring is the size it needs to be to pass over your knuckle it may be too loose at the base. One solution is to add balls or "pillows" of metal to take up some space once it's over the knuckle. This can also make it less likely to spin around. Some rings that are really top heavy can benefit from this method.

    sizing pillows in ring

    Euro springs:

    A thin, springy arm or arms of metal can be added to the inside of the ring. In theory these would move out of the way when the ring is going over the knuckle, but springs onto your finger once it's on. Here at Jewelsmith, our experience has been that these have a high failure rate. The springy metal eventually cracks and breaks. Just like when you bend a paper clip back and forth a bunch and the metal fatigues and then breaks. The metal has to be thin and sometimes can feel very sharp. So, we don't usually recommend this method.

    Ring guards:

    Most ring guards are a temporary piece of metal or plastic that clamps or coils around the ring. The idea is to take up space and make the ring feel smaller than it actually is. They are a good choice if you aren't quite ready to size the ring and want to wear it in the meantime.

    This is the metal type of ring guard and how it is installed:

    Ring guard installation steps

    The plastic coil is super easy to put on even at home and is very comfortable:

    ring with sizing coil

    Hinged shank or arthritic shank:

    This is usually a pricier option but is a good long-term solution for many styles of rings. Hinged shanks open up to fit over the knuckle and then close to the size that fits the base of your finger. Sometimes this is the only viable solution when the difference between the size of the knuckle and the base of the finger is very large. There are several options that can be ordered and customized as well as totally custom options for more unusual rings.

     

    Why getting the perfect fit is worth it.

    Rings are meaningful, beautiful and often a significant investment. You want to be able to wear them and enjoy them! Not to have them drive you bonkers or worse yet, lose them. Even more scary, get them stuck on your finger. Read our article about what to do if a ring gets stuck. They should be comfortable so you can enjoy wearing your beautiful rings!

     

    A note about Jewelsmith's repair policy.

    Our focus is creating custom jewelry, jewelry makeovers and handcrafted jewelry. We will always provide sizing and other repair services to jewelry that we have made or have serviced in the past. We do not perform repairs on jewelry that we did not make or have not worked on before. Read our full repair policy.

    Getting the right fit is always one of the most important parts of any custom ring that we make and for every handmade ring purchased from us. We hope this article helps you find your perfect fit!

     

    About the author:

    molly hollingsworth

    Molly Hollingsworth Bio

    Molly Hollingsworth is a professional goldsmith with a BFA and more than 30 years experience.

     

     


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