Design Elements
We believe that communication is key to making your custom made jewelry truly reflect you
Custom Jewelry Choices
Jewelry jargon can be confusing. Even different jewelers will sometimes use different terms for the same custom design choices! These terms certainly apply to custom engagement rings, but also to any customized design. Here's your illustrated guide for sounding like a jewelry pro when you're having your next piece of jewelry designed
Gemstone Choices
Which gemstone shapes speak to you?
Round
Oval
Cushion
Square Cushion
Emerald Cut
Radiant
Pear
Marquise
Princess
Trillion
Triangle
Heart
Cabochon (Cab)
Tapered Baguette
Straight Baguette
Half Moon
Setting Styles
These are the basic types of gemstone setting techniques, but there are endless variations of all of them
Bezel
The bezel setting is one of the most secure and protective methods of setting diamonds and gemstones. It is held and protected by a thin strip of metal all the way around the gem
Patial Bezel
Like the full bezel, the partial bezel setting is also very secure, but the openings allow you to see the sides of your diamond or gemstone
Prong
Prong settings come in a huge variety of shapes and configurations. The one pictured here is a four prong basket setting. Basket settings can have more or fewer prongs
Double Prong
This type of setting is often seen on cushion shaped gems because the double prong fits around the rounded corners more securely than a single prong
Crown Prong
This regal looking variation on the prong setting is sometimes seen in vintage jewelry, although it has seen a surge in popularity in recent years
"V" Prong
The pointy corners of princess cuts, marquises, and pear shapes tuck nicely into "V" prongs AKA chevrons. Those sharp points are often the most easily damaged parts of diamonds and gemstones and the "V" prongs offer extra protection
Flush Set
Diamonds or gemstones are set level with the surrounding metal. This technique is best used with harder gems such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies
Channel Set
Gems are secured by the channel walls. Channels can be straight or curvy.
Bead Set with Bright Cut
Small beads hold the gemstones between thin walls of metal that are cut with a shiny line. Those thin walls can also be milgrained, a technique that creates a decorative beaded edge
Scoop & Split
This type of setting goes by many names such as micro pave and micro bead, but we use the term scoop and split which accurately describes the process of scooping out metal in strategic places and then splitting what's left to fold over the gems
French Cut
The extra cut work under the gems adds a shiny light catching detail to the scoop and split setting
Pave
Pave is a French word meaning pavement. The metal holding the gems almost disapears in the brilliance of the diamond covered surface
Shank Profiles
These are the most commonly seen types of profiles or cross sections of both bands and shanks (the metal that goes around your finger in a ring). All of these profiles can be created in a variety of widths
Half Round
The smooth dome of the half round profile is very comfortable to wear
Comfort Fit
Refers to the domed inside contour of a ring. That rounded interior can be added to other profiles such as flat. This makes it easy to slide the ring on and off
Flat
Tends to be used in more contemporary designs
Knife Edge
Instead of a dome like the half round, the knife edge rises to a peak. But don't let the name fool you, it's not really sharp like the name implies
Flat edge
The addition of an edge that's a little lower in height than the rest of the ring can add extra design interest. It can also provide a place to add a decorative touch such as milgrain
Concave
A super comfy and fun profile that can capture a spinning band or look great on its own
Shank Shapes
The shank is the part of a ring that goes around your finger. The area at the top where the shank meets the main part of the ring is called the shoulders
Low Rise
Where the shank meets the top of the ring are often called the shoulders. If the shoulders stay the same height or only rise a little, then it's a low rise shank
Cathedral
The shank swoops up toward the top of the ring, often with arms that branch off the main part of the shank
Euro
This variation can be added to lots of other shank shapes. Extra corners of metal at the bottom of the shank add weight to counterbalance a top heavy ring
Tapered
Traditionally, many rings are narrower at the bottom than at the top
Reverse Taper
Like the tapered shape, there is variation in the width, but in this case, the widest area is at the bottom. This can also create some counterbalance to a ring prone to spinning
Pinched
The classic tiffany style solitaire is a great example of how a shank can pinch in right next to the top of the ring
Split
With arms that split off from the main part of the shank, this style makes a smooth but delicate looking transition between a narrow shank and a large gemstone for example
Bypass
Refers to any shank shape that approaches the top of the ring from both sides but reversed from each other
Wedding Set Fit Choices
The choice of how your engagement ring and engagement ring fit together is highly personal. The wedding set can often be soldered together to keep them from sliding out of alignment
Flush
No space can be seen between the engagement ring and the wedding band
Embrace the Gap
You either are totally cool with the gap or you're totally not. If you're in the not camp, you have options like the gentle curve or the fitted band
Gentle Curve
Gracefully flows around the contours of your engagement ring without fitting into every nook
Fitted
Fits fully around every contour of your engagement ring