Design Elements

drawing design elements and how they are combined

We believe that communication is key to making your custom made jewelry truly reflect you

Custom Jewelry Choices

Jewelry jargon can be confusing. Even different jewelers will sometimes use different terms for the same custom design choices! These terms certainly apply to custom engagement rings, but also to any customized design. Here's your illustrated guide for sounding like a jewelry pro when you're having your next piece of jewelry designed

Gemstone Choices

Which gemstone shapes speak to you?

round gemstone drawing


oval gemstone drawing


cushion gemstone drawing


square cushion drawing

Square Cushion

emerald cut gemstone drawing

Emerald Cut

radiant gemstone drawing


drawing of pear shaped gemstone


drawing of marquise gemstone


drawing of princess cut gemstone


drawing of trillion gemstone


drawing of triangle shaped gemstone


drawing of heart shaped gemstone


drawing of cabochon or cab gemstone

Cabochon (Cab)

drawing of tapered baguette gemstone

Tapered Baguette

drawing of straight baguette

Straight Baguette

drawing of half moon cut gemstone

Half Moon

Setting Styles

These are the basic types of gemstone setting techniques, but there are endless variations of all of them

drawing of bezel setting style


The bezel setting is one of the most secure and protective methods of setting diamonds and gemstones. It is held and protected by a thin strip of metal all the way around the gem

drawing of parital bezel setting style

Patial Bezel

Like the full bezel, the partial bezel setting is also very secure, but the openings allow you to see the sides of your diamond or gemstone

drawing of basic prong setting style


Prong settings come in a huge variety of shapes and configurations. The one pictured here is a four prong basket setting. Basket settings can have more or fewer prongs

drawing of double prong setting style

Double Prong

This type of setting is often seen on cushion shaped gems because the double prong fits around the rounded corners more securely than a single prong

drawing of crown prong setting style

Crown Prong

This regal looking variation on the prong setting is sometimes seen in vintage jewelry, although it has seen a surge in popularity in recent years

drawing of V prong setting style

"V" Prong

The pointy corners of princess cuts, marquises, and pear shapes tuck nicely into "V" prongs AKA chevrons. Those sharp points are often the most easily damaged parts of diamonds and gemstones and the "V" prongs offer extra protection

drawing of flush set setting style

Flush Set

Diamonds or gemstones are set level with the surrounding metal. This technique is best used with harder gems such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies

drawing of channel setting style

Channel Set

Gems are secured by the channel walls. Channels can be straight or curvy.

drawing of bead setting style

Bead Set with Bright Cut

Small beads hold the gemstones between thin walls of metal that are cut with a shiny line. Those thin walls can also be milgrained, a technique that creates a decorative beaded edge

drawing of scoop and split setting style

Scoop & Split

This type of setting goes by many names such as micro pave and micro bead, but we use the term scoop and split which accurately describes the process of scooping out metal in strategic places and then splitting what's left to fold over the gems

drawing of french cut setting style

French Cut

The extra cut work under the gems adds a shiny light catching detail to the scoop and split setting

drawing of pave setting style


Pave is a French word meaning pavement. The metal holding the gems almost disapears in the brilliance of the diamond covered surface

Shank Profiles

These are the most commonly seen types of profiles or cross sections of both bands and shanks (the metal that goes around your finger in a ring). All of these profiles can be created in a variety of widths

drawing of half round shank style

Half Round

The smooth dome of the half round profile is very comfortable to wear

drawing of comfort fit shank style

Comfort Fit

Refers to the domed inside contour of a ring. That rounded interior can be added to other profiles such as flat. This makes it easy to slide the ring on and off

drawing flat wedding band style


Tends to be used in more contemporary designs

drawing of knife edge shank style

Knife Edge

Instead of a dome like the half round, the knife edge rises to a peak. But don't let the name fool you, it's not really sharp like the name implies

drawing of flat edge shank style

Flat edge

The addition of an edge that's a little lower in height than the rest of the ring can add extra design interest. It can also provide a place to add a decorative touch such as milgrain

drawing of concave shank style


A super comfy and fun profile that can capture a spinning band or look great on its own

Shank Shapes

The shank is the part of a ring that goes around your finger. The area at the top where the shank meets the main part of the ring is called the shoulders

drawing of low rise shank style

Low Rise

Where the shank meets the top of the ring are often called the shoulders. If the shoulders stay the same height or only rise a little, then it's a low rise shank

drawing of cathedral shank style


The shank swoops up toward the top of the ring, often with arms that branch off the main part of the shank

drawing of euro shank style


This variation can be added to lots of other shank shapes. Extra corners of metal at the bottom of the shank add weight to counterbalance a top heavy ring

drawing of tapered shank style


Traditionally, many rings are narrower at the bottom than at the top

drawing of reverse taper shank style

Reverse Taper

Like the tapered shape, there is variation in the width, but in this case, the widest area is at the bottom. This can also create some counterbalance to a ring prone to spinning

drawing of pinched shank style


The classic tiffany style solitaire is a great example of how a shank can pinch in right next to the top of the ring

drawing of split shank style


With arms that split off from the main part of the shank, this style makes a smooth but delicate looking transition between a narrow shank and a large gemstone for example

drawing of bypass ring style


Refers to any shank shape that approaches the top of the ring from both sides but reversed from each other

Wedding Set Fit Choices

The choice of how your engagement ring and engagement ring fit together is highly personal. The wedding set can often be soldered together to keep them from sliding out of alignment

drawing of flush fit wedding band style


No space can be seen between the engagement ring and the wedding band

drawing of embrace the gap wedding band fit

Embrace the Gap

You either are totally cool with the gap or you're totally not. If you're in the not camp, you have options like the gentle curve or the fitted band

drawing of gentle curve wedding band fit

Gentle Curve

Gracefully flows around the contours of your engagement ring without fitting into every nook

drawing fitted wedding band style


Fits fully around every contour of your engagement ring

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Handmade in Durham since 1976

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